NEB&W Guide to Members - Bill Gill
- 1 19 SEP 2017
- 2 19 SEP 2107
- 3 1 SEP 2107
- 4 11 AUG 2017
- 5 10 AUG 2017
- 6 13 APR 2107
- 7 21 JAN 2017
- 8 MAR & APR 2016
- 9 FEB 2015
- 10 4 SEP 2014
- 11 24 JUL 2014
- 12 24 JUN 2014
- 13 23 JUN 2014
- 14 2 JUN 2014
- 15 5 APR 2014
- 16 11 FEB 2014
- 17 7 FEB 2014
- 18 21 JAN 2014
- 19 10 JAN 2014
- 20 18 Nov 2013
- 21 21 Oct 2013
- 22 9 May 2013
- 23 8 May 2013
- 24 2 May 2013
19 SEP 2017
Here is another piece of rolling stock for the back shop in the Rutland Yard. It's an Accurail 36ft boxcar that will be displayed as a car being re-stenciled after getting repainted. A few details were added to make the scene more photogenic. Since the car will be a static display, scale sized dummy MDC couplers were substituted for the kit's Accumate couplers and top lifting uncoupling levers added.
The first uncoupling lever (left side of photo) was based on reference photos, but looked awkward. Another reference view of an NYC 36ft boxcar showed a simpler, cleaner look, so the end was redone in a similar way. Unfortunately the bottom bracket for the brake staff was irreparably broken in the redo. After several unsuccessful attempts to fashion a matching replacement from an A-Line stirrup, a Tichy bracket was used.
Because the side of this car will face viewers, the air release rod was also added across the middle of the car.
Stencils and a low scaffold for the painter to stand on while working on the car are being made.
19 SEP 2107
Mud flaps were added to the '41-'46 stake bed truck. Different materials were tried. Paper was too thick. I wound up using resin flash from the F&C flat car with marble load assembled previously. The white resin is very thin, but tough. Flat black spray paint followed by craft acrylic weathering finished the mud flaps.
1 SEP 2107
Here is another Mini Metals '41-'46 Chevy stake bed truck. This one has a modified CG Laser stake bed kit (CG#GCL19046) on back. The kit's wooden stakes and wood frame around the deck were replaced with Evergreen strip styrene because the styrene looks more like steel when painted. The side pieces were also shortened in height to help disguise the kit. the only other detail added to this truck was the single windshield wiper. it was for a locomotive and the long arm was shortened to fi the truck windshield.
11 AUG 2017
John gave me an old NEB&W Roundhouse model of an 80 ft Pullman Palace car to detail as a car being repaired on the RIP track in the Rutland Yard. The first thing step: replace the pair of oval windows at the center of one side with a “regular” window. He also gave me part of another similar body shell to cut the replacement window out of.
The replaced area was painted and the rest of the side given washes of different greens to blend everything. The end door was partially opened for interest.
I decided this car would have part of its canvas roof replaced at one end. To model that I scribed a line across the clerestory section of the roof and then scraped the existing thick black paint down to bare styrene, leaving a near scale thickness edge showing for the canvas. The bare end was scribed to look like the thin wooden sheathing. A very fine needle added the screw marks. The area got painted to look like old wood, using prototype photos of wooden passenger cars being restored as reference.
Next a few scratchbuilt details were tested on the roof : 30in. roll of #8 cotton duck, toolbox (box to be painted and tools to be added), can of roofing tar and brush, two boxes of tacks (Later I realized boxes of tacks are a hardware store item. The NEB&W shops would likely order kegs of tacks and nails that carpenters would carry in a pouch or bag, so the two tiny blue boxes will be removed).
10 AUG 2017
The club recently got a laser printer and white toner for making decals. Time to print sign for Will’s model of F.B. Peck Coal Co. in Cohoes. John emailed me a scan of the North side of the model to use as a guide for fitting the sign artwork I’d done previously (see entry below). Will had to tweak the model size a bit to fit the layout. I adjusted the sign to fit. As an experiment I also “faded and weathered” the sign before it gets printed. Instead of [i]adding[/i] dirt and dust to the lettering, I used GIMP (like PhotoShop) to [i]subtract[/i] opacity from the art so it looked faded and weathered. Here’s a test of the weathered artwork on the scan.
13 APR 2107
Managed to finish the flat car in time for the spring operating session.
21 JAN 2017
I've been working for some time on a flatcar that will carry finished marble in crates from Proctor. Most finished marble probably shipped in boxcars, but a closed boxcar isn't a very interesting pickup during operating sessions, so Tom Amrine suggested a flat car and supplied a resin F&C Rutland kit. At first the kit looked like a single piece body, except all of the "U"shaped pieces for the stake pockets had to be cut from strips of resin channel that came with the kit and glued in place on the mounting plates on the car sides. That was slow and the resulting pockets are too narrow for 4X4 stakes to fit into, so a bit of faking was employed later.
The car weighs very little and I had no good way to add weight underneath the deck. I resorted to using the flat steel weight from some old kit that will mount on top of the deck and be hidden by 1 ft tall planks extending above the deck to secure the load. The F&C photo showed loose stacks of thin marble simply placed on the deck. That might work for moving pieces at crawl speed within the Proctor facility, but not for a load shipped to a customer.
Using prototype photos at Proctor of finished marble in crates as a guide, I built a carload of marble in crates to cover the weight and fill the boxed in area of the deck. I cut a piece of 0.01" sheet styrene the same size as the steel weight and placed it on top of the weight. The thickness of the styrene plus the steel plus the thickness of the piece of industrial double sided tape used to secure the weight to the deck were subtracted from the bottom of the crates so that their overall height would remain correct when loaded onto the car. The extended sides hide that deception.
The deck is a separate piece from the rest of the model. It was temporarily taped in place on the car and the weight was centered and permanently mounted to the deck with industrial double sided tape. Styrene 2x12" strips were cut to fit around the perimeter of the weight. Styrene 4x4 stakes were glued to these side boards, aligned with the stake pockets. The stakes were trimmed to butt tightly against the tops of the narrow stake pockets. Then random, short lengths of 4x4 were glued below each stake pocket to look like the bottoms of the protruding stakes. This deck assembly was spray with a can of flat gray auto primer and then partially weathered with acrylics. The bottoms stubs of stakes were also sprayed gray and attached with CA after the car sides were painted with satin black from a spray can. The paint was carefully scraped away where the stake bottoms were glued.
Scraps of white Azek (an extruded dense foam PVC house trim product) were cut with a razor saw or chopped with a razor blade to sizes approximating marble pieces seen in prototype photos. These were squared up with sandpaper. A single edged razor blade was used to slice lines in the Azek where separate thin pieces of marble would be visible. These very thin cuts were slightly widened so they could be seen.
Evergreen strip styrene in various "one-by" sizes were pre-painted on one side and all edges to look like raw, freshly cut lumber. The crates were built from the strips and glued to the Azek pieces with Testors solvent cement. However, that solvent does not dissolve PVC, so later many strips were further secured with CA. This is a tedious process, but worth it as the thickness of the crating is visible. After a small pile of crates was made I began test fitting them onto the deck and was surprised at how small an area they covered. Many more crates were made in small batches, varying the sizes for an interesting look. When crates filled a large part of the deck, the rest of the crates were custom made to fill the remaining spaces. The crates were tightly packed to prevent shifting in transit, like playing Tetris in 3D. When the deck was filled, a photo was taken to show the location of each crate and they were removed and set aside in the same order. The 0.01" styrene cover was loosely laid on top of the steel weight and each crate was glued to the styrene with thick CA, starting at both ends and working toward the center. A few crates needed a bit of sanding to squeeze into place.
That's where this project stands today. The car underframe has its brake rigging attached. The deck, side extension and upper parts of the stakes is another separate assembly and the marble crates, attached to the 0.01" styrene piece is the third separate component. Each of these can be easily touched up and weathered without messing up the other parts prior to final assembly.
As a separate, related project, John suggested I make another batch of crates that can be used as masters to cast both individual crates and also stacks of crates in plaster for detailing the Proctor facility. Here are a dozen styrene masters. A couple have different patterns on different sides so that they can be oriented to give more variety to the stacks of crates that were all over the prototype scene. The cast on planks can be painted to look like the raw wood. I've never made masters for casting before and hope these pieces will work.
I also cleaned up and sprayed satin white all the resin stacks of loose marble that came with the kit. These were given very subtle streaks of black to match prototype photos of Vermont marble. The streaks are very visible in contemporary prototype videos, but don't show in period photos, where the marble looks like it is solid white. I did not streak the small visible areas of the crated marble and hope this discrepancy will not be noticeable in future photos at Proctor.
The flatcar still needs the Rutland decals added and protected with Dullcote, The trucks and wheels need painting and the brake staff has to get mounted. This sounds like nearly done, but I am slow and have other projects in the works, so it will be a close to make the April Op Session.
MAR & APR 2016
I added the suggestion of interior details and a few riders to a pair of NEB&W brass passenger cars. Some discarded passenger interiors found under the layout were cut up to fit these two cars. Simple partitions were fitted from sheet styrene. 0.01" clear styrene car length strips were cut for glazing. The lavatory window interior was scuffed with very fine sandpaper for a frosted appearance. Car length strips of ivory bond paper were cut for window shades and then the heights were randomly varied before attaching to the inside of the clear styrene. Seated Preiser figures were painted. Some had no legs, other had them cut off. As per the time period, only a few riders were added to each car.
Will Gill completed a replacement model of Peck's Coal for Cohoes after his first model was accidentally damaged. Using prototype photos as a guide, I Letterbashed the large sign for the side of the structure using Inkscape (open source vector graphic software similar to Corel Draw) Using this vector program allows the proportions of the design to be seamlessly tweaked to accommodate any small dimensional differences between the model and the prototype. The digital artwork will get printed as a decal - perhaps a photo of the entire model wall of the building will be printed in color on white decal paper, leaving the lettering as colorless areas that will show as white.
4 SEP 2014
Detailed three more trucks for the layout. Two of these began as Classic Metal Works Mini-Metals vehicles. They are 1941-46 Chevrolets. There were only minor visible changes during that interval. The third is a Busch 1945-68 Dodge Power Wagon
24 JUL 2014
On the club Facebook page John asked viewers for a type font similar to the letters on the D.W. CARPENTER sign on a building near the tracks in Saratoga. I'm not a signpainter, but for several years I painted signs, contemporary and period appropriate, at an outdoor history museum. That experience convinced me that computer fonts will almost never look like handlettering, even fonts designed to look hand drawn. To address this I wrote an article, "Letterbashing", for RMC in OCT 2010. The technique uses imaging editing software (I use GIMP which is similar to PhotoShop) to modify parts of individual letters of computer fonts to look more like handpainted letters.
I've letterbashed several signs for other modelers I'm in contact with and presented an updated clinic in May at the Northeast/New England Prototype Railroad Modelers Meet in Collinsville, CT. Since the technique was fresh at hand, I tried creating lettering for the sign that John can print as a decal. John sent an email with a color photo of the building and sign and a perspective corrected copy of the lettering. He also included the size of the model and a color sample of the wall the sign was on.The results may need some tweaking. here's what we have so far:
24 JUN 2014
I finished both flatcars today which entailed a little more weathering, gluing down the marble and adding the brake wheels and staffs.
We'll have to see how well the "marble" slabs stay attached to the cars. There isn't a lot of surface area for gluing and the plaster slabs are soft and crumbly. I soaked the plaster with thin coats of very dilute acrylic matte medium hoping to get a better surface for the glue to bond with. After that I gave the top sides of the plaster a wash of flat white acrylic with occasional touches of brown or black to slightly stain some of the slabs like seen in some prototype photos.
To further strengthen the attachments I drilled holes into the timbers on the car decks and aligned them with holes drilled under the slabs, then added short pieces of 0.032: bronze wire for mounting pins. The pins were glued in the holes with an adhesive acrylic caulk made for bathtubs and tiles and fiberglas and plastic. I also spread a little caulk on top of the timbers that the slabs sit on.
By the way, part of the streaks of marble dust running down the sides of the cars (especially on #2792) is actual marble dust from proctor, VT.
23 JUN 2014
Applied decals to the NEB&W marble flatcars which took a little cutting to fit. The Rutland prototype photos weren't clear enough to identify all of the markings and the markings varied a bit from car to car anyway, so the decals on these NEB&W cars are a best guess. Yesterday was a warm, dry, calm day so sprayed both cars outside with Dullcote. Today did first bit of weathering. That included a general overall faded and bleached layer (thin black wash over most lettering, then overall very thin wash of zinc white) followed by some dirt and old rust (very thin wash of dark brown) then some chalking of the lettering (zinc white) and some streaking marble dust which really is marble dust from Proctor, VT salvaged last year from a neighbor who was installing marble flooring in a bathroom and mentioned the tiles were from Proctor.
2 JUN 2014
Saturday, May 31, Gave two presentations at the twelfth annual New England/North East Railroad prototype Modelers Meet in Collinsville, CT. Wore club name badge and passed around May 2014 issue of RMC with John Nehrich's hip roof article - with Will Gill's photos. That got attention of many attendees. Both presentations featured models on the NEB&W. One was a short presentation & workshop weathering Classic Metal Works trucks similar to the ones on the layout (NOV 2013 RMC). The other was a more in depth look at "Letterbashing" (OCT 2010 RMC) and used Will Gill's kitbashed Star Woolen Mill as an example of the technique.
5 APR 2014
Two more trucks were delivered for the Spring Op Session. They have been added to the bottom of the list (#16) of projects posted back on May 2013.
11 FEB 2014
The rivet experiment (7 FEB entry) worked moderately well. Here's what I did: Used narrow strips of frosted Scotch Tape to create a portion of the prototype Rutland flatcar rivet pattern using the Athearn flatcar rivet spacing as a guide. A very fine marking pen marked each separate rivet pattern. Each piece of tape was narrow enough to fit between a pair of stake pockets on the car side. A tape pattern was positioned on the car and a very fine needle in a pin vise was used to LIGHTLY mark the location of each new rivet in that section. The lighter the mark the better. The pattern was removed and the next pattern located in the next section. When the rivets were all marked, another fine needle, held in a pin vise, was dipped into a puddle of Gorilla Superglue, getting a tiny dot of glue on the tip. The tip was lowered over a mark on the car until the glue dot - but not the needle tip - just made contact with the plastic, then the needle was raised straight away off the side. When all went well a tiny dot of glue was deposited that just covered the mark and was about the same tiny size as the surrounding Athearn rivets. When it didn't, the dot of glue was quickly wiped away with a blunt wooden toothpick and a few seconds later a new dot was applied.
Difficulties with this technique: the tiny frosted tape pattern did not want to stay in place when the needle was used to mark the rivet locations. I usually had to try to hold it in place with the tips of tweezers -awkward. The pattern quickly wore out or tore with repeated use for the two flatcars and new ones had to be made. If the mark was not in line it could be 'rubbed' away with a polished, rounded metal tool tip. If a mark was too big or deep the glue dot either spread out or disappeared in the crater. Sometimes the glue seemed less viscous than other times. Getting a consistent small dot on the end of the needle was tricky and sometime the glue spread out when the tip contacted the car side. If a rivet head was too large, a very sharp #17 X-Acto blade could be used to gently scrape away some of the glue. This has to be done after the glue sets, but within a few minutes of the application or the glue cures hard and will not scrape away cleanly.
7 FEB 2014
Experimented adding rivet heads to the Athearn flatcars to more closely approximate the prototype Rutland reference. John Nehrich wrote an article in the JAN 1986 MR - Flatcars and gons for the NEB&W - showing how he had lightly pinpricked Athearn car sides to simulate rivets. The soft plastic gets slightly raised around the hole and it looks like a rivet at normal viewing distance. I wanted to see if that could be slightly modified for close-up photos. The technique was tedious and the results were mixed. I'll give more details after more experimentation.
21 JAN 2014
Added Tichy wire grab irons to both flat cars. Modified a Tichy #3003 Vertical Brake Wheel & Staff mounting bracket to look more like the NEB&W (Rutland) bracket. To do that I sliced the horizontal part of the bracket off the vertical section, then cut away just enough of the horizontal support under the ratchet & pawl so that when the piece was rotated 90º horizontally and glued to the edge of the end of the car, the hole through the ratchet would still line up with the vertical guide for the staff. Glued the horizontal piece on the end and before that set, glued the vertical piece under it. Threaded the staff through both parts to make sure they were aligned, then let the glue set hard overnight. Next day bent two pieces of 0.020 bronze wire from Tichy into a shape something like the outline of a round bottom chemistry flask to represent the tiltting brake staff found on these Rutland marble service flatcars. Bent the tips of the vertical portion back 90º to form pins for mounting the pieces in holes drilled through the vertical legs of the Tichy bracket. Glued those in place. The results aren’t very much like the prototype, but in the middle of a train probably won’t be noticed. The tilting brake mount is interesting. The idea was to move the brake wheel out of the way for large loads. Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine had an article about RR handbrakes and this from that link shows a similar type mounting: http://mrhpub.com/2013-11-nov/land/#118
10 JAN 2014
Compared to all the major work Tom, John and others are in the midst of, this topic is nano size and moving at less than a glacial pace.
Yesterday I glued the 6X6 timbers onto the second flatcar deck and discovered, despite item 4. above, three of the timbers were glued on top of the wrong planks on the first flatcar. I used a lot of solvent to fuse those 6x6s to the deck so that when the ends got engraved with "woodgrain" the pieces would look like the prototype 6x9 timbers instead of 6x6s on top of 3x6 deck. I was not eager to try to remove the errant strips, but it went better than expected. I have a few double edged stainless steel razor blades that are thinner and sharper than a regular blade. I snapped one in half and then snapped a short length, then used that lying flat on the deck to slice the 6x 6 strips off. That took careful pushing against the snapped side of the blade to avoid getting cut, snapping the brittle blade again or gouging the 6x6. The blade worked well enough that the 6x6s were reusable, so I triple checked their locations and glued them back on. Several hours later, when the glue had set on both decks I gently scraped any shiny glue spots away and then scrubbed the deck and timbers with a brass brush to give everything a scuffed, flat finish. Next I engraved the visible ends of the decks and timbers with a fine needle to represent weathered wood grain. I also used a regular single edged razor blade to redefine the end spaces between the deck boards.
During this same time period, Tom replaced approximately 200 (actual) miles of fascia, added 1000 new supports and tore out 3 tons of old wiring. John researched and built a dozen models from scratch in between redesigning the new Chatgeaugay area. Others completed proportionally equal tasks.
18 Nov 2013
(Work in Progress)
MODIFYING ATHEARN 40 FT FLATCARS TO MODEL NEB&W (RUTLAND) FLATCARS FOR MARBLE SERVICE
NEB&W cars look like Rutland cars of the same type. The 11 stake Athearn cars are close but don't match the Rutland cars, changing some details helps. Major surgery and more information are required to make a more accurate version of the car. I decided to add/change some details and then experiment on aging the cars to be photogenically acceptable models and distract from their inaccuracies.
The only two photos I could find on the club site Open Top Loads - Marble & Other Stone Slabs did not clearly show a number of details (e.g. were the taller timbers that the marble slabs sat on separate cross timbers on top of the deck (no) or were they installed as part of the decking (yes)? What did the bracket for mounting the brake staff & wheel look like?, what did the end of the car look like?). John Nehrich found better prototype photos. (include Steam era photos and brass model photos to be added here).
This project was straight forward - after omitting the false starts and missteps - though time consuming. A list of compromises is included at the end. If you are trying to build a more accurate car. A list of parts and materials also follows at the end.
1. I started with undecorated kits. Otherwise the first step is to strip the paint by soaking in 91% isopropyl alcohol and scrubbing with a toothbrush. 2. Cut off, flush with the top of the deck, the odd Brake stand fixture where the brake wheel is mounted. Do not to cut into the deck planks, but this does not have to be very neat as the rest of that fixture will be removed. 3. Using a single edged razor blade cut away the rest of the fixture between the first deck plank and top of the end of the car frame. Clean up the cuts by carefully scraping the cut areas with a single edged razor blade. 4. Using a narrow chisel blade or the razor blade, carefully remove the following details on the car: a. The stirrup steps at each corner b. the remaining part of the brake fixture that is on the B end frame of the car c. all the cast on grab irons ( If possible, do not remove the cast on grab mounting bolts on the sides of the car ) d. the U bolts and triangular gussets cast on each stake pocket. The prototype Rutland flatcars had neither of those. Do not remove the polling pockets or the castings for the coupler pockets on the ends of the car 5. Holding the razor blade perpendicular to the end of the car, gently scrape the plastic smooth between the polling pockets and the coupler pockets also smooth the sides where the grab irons were removed. 6. Using a handheld drill bit the same size as the inner diameter of the polling pocket casting, gently twist the drill a few turns to cut a slight indentation for each pocket.
IN BETWEEN STEPS
Aging the Deck
Using coarse sandpaper (e.g. 80 grit) remove the injection nub at the center of the deck. Using a straight edge as a sliding guide, lightly sand the top of the deck with the grain of the planks to add rough grain and wear and tear to the deck boards. You do not have to sand very hard, Clean up fuzzy scratches with a brass wire brush or similar tool. Add splits and gouges with a #11 X-acto knife and razor blade. Use prototype photos as guide for how rough to go. Add knot holes with a fine needle chucked in a pinvise. Vary the pressure and angle of the needle. Scrape off any raised burrs with a fingernail or razor blade.
Aging the Body
Prototype cars have dents and scrapes and other physical damage usually omitted on models. Since many photos on the NEB&W are closeup shots, I decided to see if some of this physical wear & tear beyond weathering with paint and powders could be added to the cars. Tools used for this step need to have highly polished tips and edges. Tools used for this include: smooth tipped tweezers, the side of a heavy needle and crochet hooks of various gauges. The idea is to apply enough pressure to indent the plastic body without scratching its surface. Using prototype photos as a guide, the edges (especially the bottom edges) along the car sides were rubbed (hard) in places where stuff is thrown up against the underframe of the car. A few longitudinal dents were rubbed along the sides of the car to duplicate hits from loads and equipment, sideswipes and other hits. ( Careful rubbing with a polished tip can also remove small unintentional nicks or scratches made while working on a car). Occasionally a rivet head may be scraped or rubbed off in the process. This is not unprototypical. Very heavy corrosion may be simulated by applying a small amount of solvent cement in the appropriate location, waiting a few seconds for the liquid to evaporate, then stippling LIGHTLY with a very fine brush cut very short. Do not overdo this as it quickly becomes a caricature effect.
1. Cut 8 pieces of Evergreen 6x6 the width of the deck planks. 2. With coarse sandpaper lightly sand the pieces on three long sides. 3. Using solvent cement (be judicious, the glue will spread out on the sanded deck planks, but use enough to "merge" the outer edges of the 6x6s into the underlying deck plank, the rest will be cleaned up later), glue the pieces (unsanded side facing the deck) to the deck at the following locations: a. on top of the 7th deck plank from each end b. counting from one end 6x6 toward the far end of the car, mark every 10th board until you reach the other end. This should come out with six more evenly spaced timbers along the length of the car. 4. Check that the timbers are directly on top of the correct deck planks, parallel with them and do not stick out beyond the ends of the deck planks. 5. Set the car aside and leave it alone for a couple hours until the solvent has evaporated and the bond is set and hard. 6.With a small piece of medium sandpaper, gentle sand away any glossy glue marks on the deck where the solvent spread when gluing the 6x6s 6. Using the tip of a fine needle, scratch grain into the ends of all the deck planks. Blend the seams where the 6x6s and original deck planks join so the joints disappear. Then press the corner of a razor blade into the spaces between individual planks along the edge of the deck sides to redefine all those seams between planks.
21 Oct 2013
Finishing up two more pieces of rolling stock that will get delivered at the Fall Op Session. One is another PRR 40 ft GS gondola 861007 with a pulpwood load like the one above except this one used a casting for most of the load. The casting is very hard, either something like dental plaster or a hard resin. The casting was a bit wide for the car and had to be chiseled and sanded to fit.a top layer or two of real twigs were added and the casting was repainted to match that.
The other is a PRR 50 ft F-30a flat car 473766. The Bowser flat car will probably run as an empty. I weathered the wooden deck and sides.
There are also two more Classic Metal Works trucks ready for the layout. One is another green Chevy pickup with a driver and a load of wire fence rolls.
The other is a flatbed truck that got more details including stake bed sides and a load of hay bales. These trucks were added to the list below. These trucks were featured in the November 2013 issue of RMC. (Will Gill also took some photos used in the article, including the magazine cover shot).
9 May 2013
Raining here, can't go out and spray Dullcote on the latest pickup truck.
Noticed on the pages for former members that John has listed projects they started or completed while at the club. Some attributions are uncertain, so to protect the innocent, here is a listing of club projects up to today that can be blamed (at least mostly) on me:
1. Classic Metal Works (Mini Metals) 1950 White box truck - Added metallic tape to cover the "box" (It currently is on the bridge at North Creek). This was the first "project" I did for the club.
2. B&M milk car no. 1854 - kitbashed from an Accurail 40-foot wooden reefer. (Tom Amrine sprayed painted the car).
3. Keveny Academy (Cohoes) - Scratchbuilt the front. Also modified the classrooms section of the long wall that John assembled to look a bit more like the prototype. John had started the model as a stand-in from a Walthers modern roundhouse kit. The nun and the students in front of the school are wearing the correct habit and uniforms thanks to recollections of a former nun who was principal. ("Keveny Academy" RMC Jan 2007.)
4. East Shoreham depot - Added a few small details, changed the roofing from slate to rolled roofing and painted the Rutland Carworks Orwell Station kit that Will Gill built. This model will be on the Addison Branchline. It was almost identical to the Orwell structure.
5. Laser-Arts (Branchline) Shoreham Covered bridge kit #672 - Backdated and modified this kit to 1950 for the Addison Branch.
6. East Shoreham backdrop (Addison Branch) - Using GIMP software, created the 4-foot (later extended to 6-foot) scene behind the East Shoreham covered bridge as it appeared in a John Gardner photo of the bridge c. 1950.
7. Star Woolen (Cohoes) - Will Gill kitbashed this mill as a stand-in from Walthers Greatland Sugar Refinery kit 933-3092. I Added a small green structure on the roof and repainted the model including adding the "Star Woolen" sign on the aisle side of the model. ("Letterbashing" RMC Oct 2010.)
8. Sunshine Models NYC Express Reefer no. 5905 - assembled this kit with only a couple small changes in details to make them more durable for handling. Tom Amrine painted this car a faded shade of NYC green and added two patched areas of even lighter green to approximate the prototype photo.
9. Classic Metal Works 1948 Ford Woody (Woodie?) wagon - detailed this car for the layout at the request of Tom Amrine who saw the similar (but not identical) one that I had detailed for my own layout (Detailing a classic" RMC Nov 2011).
- This Woody has a slightly anachronistic "Frontier Town" bumper ad on front bumper which was copied from an online image. Frontier Town (a tourist attraction near Lake George) didn't open until 1952, but that small detail explains the Indian war bonnet on the boy in the backseat.
10. Pulpwood load in PRR 40-foot GS gondola 860006 - Tom Amrine assembled the Bowser kit. I dented its sides and weathered it and then added the pulpwood load based on photo on the club's website. There is a block of pine filling most of the gon. The real sticks and the block were glued into the car with Wellbond Glue. Some sticks were painted to represent the common species cut for pulpwood in the Northeast. The vertical logs on each end are bamboo skewers (chosen for durability and resilience) stained and painted to match the rest of the load ("Two for the load" RMC Nov 2012).
11. Lumber load on CP 40-foot flat car 307108 - Tom Amrine assembled the Red Caboose kit. I weathered it and added the load based on Noel Holley’s “Lumber Loads from the 1940’s & 50’s” (Model Railroader - Feb ‘57), and Greg Martin’s & Paul Chandler’s “Accurate Lumber Loads” (Mainline Modeler - Feb '91). The stacks of lumber are blocks of maple. They are nailed and glued together as a unit and the entire load is glued to a thin cardboard spacer (to allow room for the stub 2x4 spacers under the load. Wellbond was used for the glue ("Two for the load" RMC Nov 2012).
12. Classic Metal Works Mini-Metals 1941-'46 Chevy trucks - detailed and weathered three pickups (so far): a red pick up with a load of milk cans, a farmer loading/unloading a can and his wife catching a few winks in the cab.
- A green pickup, with driver, hauling boxes of Macintosh apples.
- A Mini-Metals orange pickup (with blue stripe) crunched in an accident (This model is for the roof of Bumstead Chevrolet in Troy).
- Also kitbashed and detailed a Mini-Metals 1941-'46 Chevy Bell Telephone truck.
- and modified a Little Person to be a lineman working up a pole next to the truck. His clothing and gear are based on this period ad.
- Two more trucks were added: a second green pickup with driver and a load of wire fence rolls and round wooden fence posts.
- Also kitbashed a Chevy flatbed truck into a stakebed truck with a load of hay bales.
13. Bowser PRR 40-foot GS gondola 861007, assembled, beat up and weathered, with a resin pulpwood load modified to look like the one above.
14. Bowser PRR 50-foot F-30a flat car 473766 assembled and weathered (empty car).
15. Two more Mini-Metals trucks ready for the layout. One is another green Chevy pickup with a driver and a load of wire fence rolls.
The other is a flatbed truck that got more details including stake bed sides and a load of hay bales.
These trucks were added to the above list. These trucks were featured in the November 2013 issue of RMC. (Will Gill also took some photos used in the article, including the magazine cover shot).
16. April 5, 2014: Two more CMW Mini-Metals trucks delivered for the Spring Op Session. One is an International Harvester R-190 refrigerated Armour meat truck. Only a few details were added: side view mirror, air horns on the roof, mud flaps in back and 1954 commercial NY license plates. There is also a separate “pull out” ramp for loading/unloading. The truck got a bit of dirt and dust, including bugs smashed on the front of the hood and top of the truck body.
The second is a Railway Express stake bed truck. Since the truck itself was supposed to remain mostly clean and bright, the concentration on this truck was making an interesting load of cargo. That includes a jumble of odds and ends from parts boxes and some scratchbuilt cardboard boxes. One holds a Sears washing machine, three small ones are GE light bulbs and there is a generic box taped shut. There is also a new fender in primer gray in a crate. It is the one cut off the orange pickup that was banged up previously to sit on the roof of Bumstead’s Chevrolet in Troy. This truck had a little wood grain embossed in the stake bed sides, a little wear on the tailgate and just a tad of dust and dirt. It also got 1954 commercial NY license plates. Its mud flaps were removed and added to the Armour truck above.
17. June 24, 2014: Two Athearn 40-foot marble service flat cars NEB&W 2755 and 2792, begun on 18 Nov. 2013.
8 May 2013
Modified a LP (little person) to be the driver of the pickup truck. Cut him off at the waist, flattened his back a little to get more room between him and the steering wheel. Changed his arms so his hands look like they are on the wheel and turned his hard hat into a baseball cap by scraping it closer to his head all around and making it less domed shaped on top. That also helps this driver fit in the cab without having to cut away some of top of the clear plastic windshield-windows piece for more headroom. Filed and carved away the driver's side window for a little ventilation for the driver (also happens to make the driver more visible.
Not sure if the flatbed truck will get a driver in its cab or outside working next to the truck, but will finish the pick up before continuing on it.
2 May 2013
Working on a couple more Classic Metal Works Mini Metals trucks for the layout, one more 1941-46 Chevy pickup, the other a similar vintage Chevy flatbed. Trying a new weathering technique. It's working pretty well so far.